Marc Jacobs always takes us on an interesting journey and for the A/W 12-13 showing of his eponymous label, he took us to Dickensian depths.

First there was a “ruined castle” set that would have made Miss Havisham proud, built by Marc’s longtime friend, artist Rachel Feinstein. A pilgrim-inspired runway followed – featuring fur and tweed layered over chunky knits, stoles and midi skirts, as well as textured brocade coats and a buckled, square-toed boot thrown in for good measure. This was all to the Oliver soundtrack, in case you were in any doubt about which Dickens’ urchin the designer was referencing this season.

But what really had everybody talking, even more than who was sitting in the front row (Dakota Fanning, Anna Wintour and Jared Leto, in case you were wondering) were the oversized, wide-brimmed faux fur hats by milliner Stephen Jones. Did they conjure up images of My Fair Lady’s Eliza Doolittle (back in her flower-selling days) or, as fashion writer Derek Blasberg dared to tweet, pimps?