It’s tomato time but our season has been miserable for the fruit. A little bit of rain when it wasn’t needed and there’s more leaf than tomato. Many of our local growers have been hit by disease. Added to that, a cool summer left the tomatoes in many gardens green.

There’s still a chance, however, because the most flavoursome fruit is usually available around late March, and as soon as the orbs start to colour, they ripen best on the kitchen bench.

You can make this Tuscan soup in winter using tinned Italian tomatoes, which I have to do sometimes, but right now the flavour and texture of the fresh fruit is incomparable. Especially with eggs recently stolen from the coop.

Acquacotta – A humble soup

(Serves 4)

The most unassuming of soups, acquacotta was traditionally a filler for Tuscan farm workers – it didn’t cost too much or need any meat or stock.

Ingredients

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 medium Spanish (red) onions, diced
1 small chilli, sliced finely
2 large (about 400g in total) extremely
ripe tomatoes, diced (if you can only
find unripe fresh ones, use tinned)
1 litre water
11/2 tsp salt
Black pepper, freshly milled
40g grated Italian parmesan or mild
pecorino cheese (if you’re desperate, a good cheddar could work)
4 free-range eggs
4 thick slices peasant-style bread such as sourdough
1 clove garlic, peeled
10 fresh basil leaves, torn (plus a little extra for serving)

Instructions

Heat half the oil in a large saucepan over a low heat and fry the onions and chilli until the onions are soft – allow about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, water and pepper and cook for about 15 minutes. Whisk together the grated cheese and eggs; season a little with pepper and possibly more salt.

Chargrill or toast the bread until it’s dark but not burnt, rub lightly with garlic to flavour, then pop a slice into the bottom of four large, flat soup bowls. Work quickly at this stage so the bread is warm when you do the next steps. You can even warm the soup bowls a little prior to assembling.

Add the basil to the boiling soup, pour the egg mixture over the bread, then ladle the soup over the top. It will cook the egg, melt the cheese a little and soak into the bread. Top with extra basil and serve.